Chuka Ajimaru

Tucked down a lane near Hirai Station, Chuka Ajimaru has the relaxed feel of an izakaya, but its dishes are prepared one at a time by a chef with years of experience cooking Chinese food. The care is evident even in the small side dish served at the start. Waiting for each freshly cooked plate over drinks becomes part of an unhurried evening.

The menu is rich in dishes made for sharing with a drink: mapo tofu with the bright heat of chilli and Sichuan pepper, house-made pan-fried gyoza filled with fragrant meat, and boiled gyoza with soft, chewy wrappers. Pork in black vinegar sauce and pork meatballs in black vinegar stand out for their balance of tang and richness. There is also a northeastern-style sweet-and-sour pork made with thinly sliced meat, as well as deep-fried aubergine with a fresh aroma of Sichuan pepper. The skillful handling of heat and seasoning in the stir-fries and fried dishes is another draw. Between richer flavours, shredded dried tofu salad, avocado salad, or cabbage soup with tender meatballs and glass noodles offers a lighter change of pace.

Drinks include reasonably priced lemon sours and highballs, along with a varied selection of bottled beers, making it tempting to order small plates to match. The counter, with a close view of the cooking, suits a casual solo drink, while a raised tatami area at the back has low tables and chairs for a relaxed evening with a group. Open from 17:00 until late, the restaurant also takes reservations and offers takeaway, making it a convenient stop for dinner in Hirai or a drink after work.